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Vahabi Dastjerdi M, Sheibani S, Taheri M, Hezarcheshmeh FK, Jahangirian J, Jazayeri M, et al

Molecular mechanisms of cutaneous ageing To interpret the effects of dermatological peptides, the molecular alterations of cutaneous ageing must be understood: Intrinsic ageing (chronological) Decreased collagen synthesis by fibroblasts (1% per year after 30) AGE accumulation (Advanced Glycation End-products) by non-enzymatic glycation Fibroblastic senescence with SASP (Senescence-Associated Secretory Phenotype), chronic pro-inflammatory secretion Dermal atrophy , reduced vascularisation, loss of subcutaneous adipocytes Extrinsic ageing (photoageing) UV-B damage : cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, keratinocyte DNA alteration UV-A and oxidative stress : ROS, lipid peroxidation, protein carbonylation MMP overexpression (MMP-1, MMP-3, MMP-9) via AP-1 activation, degrading collagen and elastin Solar elastosis : accumulation of degraded and dystrophic elastin in the dermis Dermatological peptides act at different levels of these cascades: anabolic stimulation (GHK-Cu, Matrixyl), catabolic inhibition (MMP modulation), anti-oxidant protection (GHK-Cu), inflammatory signalling modulation

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